Tigers and Ranthambore

 

Tiger emerging from the bush

Rajasthan, episode 6

On arrival at our lodgings at Tiger Den, adjacent to Ranthambore National Park, we were rushed into the Jeep and sped off into the bush. Tigers had been sighted and we were late!

Tigers are one of the species I was yet to see in the wild, so my level of expectancy was high. However, I am also a realist. Ranthambore is vast and, with only forty tigers reported to live in this section of the reserve, I was under no illusions about seeing one. I have spoken to many fellow travelers who had not seen a tiger when visiting Ranthambore.

We booked four separate trips to the reserve traveling by private jeep. It is essential to book months in advance and payment is also required at the same time to guarantee entry to the reserve. The reserve is split up into four zones and each vehicle is allocated a zone when they enter the park. Your zone is selected by random with a computer, so, if you get a zone where tigers have not been seen, and may not be there, you just have to hope something else will come along.

On our first trip into the reserve we headed off to a spot where two tigers had made a kill and were still feeding off the carcass. We traveled through the reserve on dusty tracks only to be confronted by a traffic jam of Jeeps, Canters (16 to 20-seat safari buses) and other vehicles all trying to see a tiger.

This image should give you an indication of what happens when everybody heads for the same spot!


I managed to get a glimpse of a tiger in the bush and get a couple of pictures, not to my liking, but I saw the tiger.

Over the following two days, we had success in seeing two more tigers together and managed to get a few shots feeding on a carcass. The last morning, we were directed into a zone where tigers had not been seen. So, with an open mind, we spent our time visiting various locations of the reserve. WOW what a place. We travelled through the reserve past lakes, wetlands, scrub, seeing the most wonderful scenes populated by Samba deer, Chittal deer, amazing bird life and Black-face monkeys, running around the ramparts of the fort.

The following images should give you an indication of the diversity of wildlife that inhabits the reserve, as well as the tigers.

I did not get my ‘perfect’ tiger picture, but I have never achieved my perfect picture in Africa and elsewhere. One day I will return to India and see if I can get my ‘Perfect’ picture. Until then, enjoy the pictures.

Tiger feeding on the buffalo carcass

View over the lake

Black-faced Langur monkeys

Chittal deer

Samba male deer tangling horns

Ranthambore Fort

Mongoose

Snake eagle

Our Jeep with Devendra, our guide

Rajasthan, episode 5: Ranthambore Bharatpur to Ranthambore (Sawi Madhopur Junction) by Rail

 

Ranthambore

On arrival at our lodgings at Tiger Den, adjacent to Ranthambore National Park, we were rushed into the Jeep and sped off into the bush. Tigers had been sighted and we were late!

Tigers are one of the species I was yet to see in the wild, so my level of expectancy was high. However, I am also a realist. Ranthambore is vast and, with only forty tigers reported to live in this section of the reserve, I was under no illusions about seeing one. I have spoken to many fellow travelers who had not seen a tiger when visiting Ranthambore.

We booked four separate trips to the reserve traveling by private jeep. It is essential to book months in advance and payment is also required at the same time to guarantee entry to the reserve. The reserve is split up into four zones and each vehicle is allocated a zone when they enter the park. Your zone is selected by random with a computer, so, if you get a zone where tigers have not been seen, and may not be there, you just have to hope something else will come along.

On our first trip into the reserve we headed off to a spot where two tigers had made a kill and were still feeding off the carcass. We travelled through the reserve on dusty tracks only to be confronted by a traffic jam of jeeps, Chanters and other vehicles all trying to see a tiger.

This image should give you an indication of what happens when everybody heads for the same spot!



I managed to get a glimpse of a tiger in the bush and get a couple of pictures, not to my liking, but I saw the tiger.

Over the following two days, we had success in seeing two more tigers together and managed to get a few shots feeding on a carcass. The last morning, we were directed into a zone where tigers had not been seen. So, with an open mind, we spent our time visiting various locations of the reserve. WOW what a place. We travelled through the reserve past lakes, wetlands, scrub, seeing the most wonderful scenes populated by Samba deer, Chittal deer, amazing bird life and Black-face monkeys, running around the ramparts of the fort.

The following images should give you an indication of the diversity of wildlife that inhabits the reserve, as well as the tigers.

Tiger emerging from the bush


I did not get my ‘perfect’ tiger picture, but I have never achieved my perfect picture in Africa and elsewhere. One day I will return to India and see if I can get my ‘Perfect’ picture. Until then, enjoy the pictures.
Tiger feeding on the buffalo carcass


View over the lake


Snake eagle


Samba male deer tangling horns


Black face monkeys


Chittal deer


Mongoose


Ranthambore fort


Our jeep with Devendra, our guide

Bharatpur to Ranthambore (Sawi Madhopur Junction) by Rail

Rajasthan, episode 5

The next stop on our travels was Bharatpur bird sanctuary, reported to be one of the finest in the world. However, upon arrival, we found out that there was no water – a wetlands without water!

This part of the journey started from the ‘Birder’s Inn’ at Bharatpur with our guide giving us a motor cycle escort to the rail station. Our driver, Jaipal, followed our guide weaving in and out of the streets until we arrived at the railway station. The network of roads leading to the station was small and very windy. Bharatpur station is huge with many tracks stretching out over a vast distance.

Train access, Indian syle! If you can’t get in one side, try the other!

The Golden Temple Express arrives

A few facts… Indian railways employs over one million people and moves in excess of 6.5 million people every day – some feat!

We sat on the platform waiting for the Golden Temple Express to arrive. Our guide, still with us, was insistent we got on the right carriage and in the right seats. Whilst we were waiting, we asked our guide if the train would be on time. He reflected for a moment and said:

“The train will not come before, but always after”.

One of those wonderful statements that you do not forget. The train was an hour late.

In the carriage, on our way to Ranthambore

Arrival at Sawi Madhopur Junction and assistance with luggage

Fortunately our driver, Jaipal, drove onto Ranthambore with the majority of our luggage, so we did not have the struggle of getting on the train with all our bags. We settled in our seats and for the next two hours, experienced Indian rail travel.

Walking across the tacks to find our platform

News kiosk on the platform

Indian life is one of a 24-hour activity, wherever you are. The train and the stations form an integral part of the Indian way of life. Fascinating to watch the people coming and going and at each station, the train seemed to empty out and fill up again within a few minutes bringing a new set of faces on the move.

Memsahib, ever resourceful, handed out drinks, biscuits and fruit as we made our way to Ranthambore.

Arrival at Bharatpur train station

On arrival at Ranthambore, we were met on the station platform by our representative from Royal Expeditions, who, with driver, hurried us into the jeep and we sped off to ‘Tiger Den’ - our lodgings for the next few nights. The reason for the hurry up was that our Jeep was waiting to take us into the reserve before it got too dark. Tigers, here we come.

Memsahib and yours truly

Rajasthan, episode 4: Majestic - Magnificant the Taj Mahal