New Delhi to Ranthambore - the conclusion

 
Rajasthan, episode 7

This will be the last blog post on our travels from New Delhi to Ranthambore. After Ranthambore, we remained in Rajasthan on the edge of the Great Thar desert at Roop Niwas and Dundlod, the HQ of the 81st Endurance event. For those of you who have not seen my web site, I would urge you to do so. There are many images showing what a wonderful place India is – you must go there.

There are a number of people I would like to thank for ensuring our stay and travels through Rajasthan were as stress free as possible. The first is ‘Jaipal Singh’ our driver. For two weeks, Jaipal drove us from New Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore, Japur, Roop Niwas, Dunlod and back to New Delhi. Not once did he miss a beat. His driving was impeccable and even Memsahib felt comfortable the whole trip.

Jaipal works for ‘Royal Expeditions', the company that organized all our hotels, city guides, and anything else you can think of. One example of customer service: When we were in Jaipur, I realized I had left my jacket in the hotel at Ranthambore, some 4 hours driving distance. I mentioned this to our driver, Jaipal, and he phoned Royal Expeditions HQ to see what could be done. This was at 9.00am in the morning. By the time we returned to the hotel in the evening, about 6.00 pm, my jacket was waiting for me in reception. I was amazed! A young man was sent on the train from Jaipur to Ranthambore and back to collect my jacket – at no cost to me. WOW, what about that for service?

Royal expeditions can be contacted at http://www.royalexpeditions.com/. Please use them if you are travelling anywhere in India.

The person who was primarily responsible for our trip was Caroline Moorey. Caroline is chair of the "Friends of Marwari / Kathiawari Horse UK" and one of the GB Team riders. Please support this web site http://www.friendsofmarwari.org.uk/ there is lots of information about the indigenous horse breeds in India.

I leave you with a few pictures of Indian transport. The pictures bring a smile to my face every time I see them. I trust you have enjoyed our Rajasthan blog series over the last few months.





Rajasthan, episode 6: Tigers and Ranthambore
 

Tigers and Ranthambore

 

Tiger emerging from the bush

Rajasthan, episode 6

On arrival at our lodgings at Tiger Den, adjacent to Ranthambore National Park, we were rushed into the Jeep and sped off into the bush. Tigers had been sighted and we were late!

Tigers are one of the species I was yet to see in the wild, so my level of expectancy was high. However, I am also a realist. Ranthambore is vast and, with only forty tigers reported to live in this section of the reserve, I was under no illusions about seeing one. I have spoken to many fellow travelers who had not seen a tiger when visiting Ranthambore.

We booked four separate trips to the reserve traveling by private jeep. It is essential to book months in advance and payment is also required at the same time to guarantee entry to the reserve. The reserve is split up into four zones and each vehicle is allocated a zone when they enter the park. Your zone is selected by random with a computer, so, if you get a zone where tigers have not been seen, and may not be there, you just have to hope something else will come along.

On our first trip into the reserve we headed off to a spot where two tigers had made a kill and were still feeding off the carcass. We traveled through the reserve on dusty tracks only to be confronted by a traffic jam of Jeeps, Canters (16 to 20-seat safari buses) and other vehicles all trying to see a tiger.

This image should give you an indication of what happens when everybody heads for the same spot!


I managed to get a glimpse of a tiger in the bush and get a couple of pictures, not to my liking, but I saw the tiger.

Over the following two days, we had success in seeing two more tigers together and managed to get a few shots feeding on a carcass. The last morning, we were directed into a zone where tigers had not been seen. So, with an open mind, we spent our time visiting various locations of the reserve. WOW what a place. We travelled through the reserve past lakes, wetlands, scrub, seeing the most wonderful scenes populated by Samba deer, Chittal deer, amazing bird life and Black-face monkeys, running around the ramparts of the fort.

The following images should give you an indication of the diversity of wildlife that inhabits the reserve, as well as the tigers.

I did not get my ‘perfect’ tiger picture, but I have never achieved my perfect picture in Africa and elsewhere. One day I will return to India and see if I can get my ‘Perfect’ picture. Until then, enjoy the pictures.

Tiger feeding on the buffalo carcass

View over the lake

Black-faced Langur monkeys

Chittal deer

Samba male deer tangling horns

Ranthambore Fort

Mongoose

Snake eagle

Our Jeep with Devendra, our guide

Rajasthan, episode 5: Ranthambore Bharatpur to Ranthambore (Sawi Madhopur Junction) by Rail

 

Bharatpur to Ranthambore (Sawi Madhopur Junction) by Rail

Rajasthan, episode 5

The next stop on our travels was Bharatpur bird sanctuary, reported to be one of the finest in the world. However, upon arrival, we found out that there was no water – a wetlands without water!

This part of the journey started from the ‘Birder’s Inn’ at Bharatpur with our guide giving us a motor cycle escort to the rail station. Our driver, Jaipal, followed our guide weaving in and out of the streets until we arrived at the railway station. The network of roads leading to the station was small and very windy. Bharatpur station is huge with many tracks stretching out over a vast distance.

Train access, Indian syle! If you can’t get in one side, try the other!

The Golden Temple Express arrives

A few facts… Indian railways employs over one million people and moves in excess of 6.5 million people every day – some feat!

We sat on the platform waiting for the Golden Temple Express to arrive. Our guide, still with us, was insistent we got on the right carriage and in the right seats. Whilst we were waiting, we asked our guide if the train would be on time. He reflected for a moment and said:

“The train will not come before, but always after”.

One of those wonderful statements that you do not forget. The train was an hour late.

In the carriage, on our way to Ranthambore

Arrival at Sawi Madhopur Junction and assistance with luggage

Fortunately our driver, Jaipal, drove onto Ranthambore with the majority of our luggage, so we did not have the struggle of getting on the train with all our bags. We settled in our seats and for the next two hours, experienced Indian rail travel.

Walking across the tacks to find our platform

News kiosk on the platform

Indian life is one of a 24-hour activity, wherever you are. The train and the stations form an integral part of the Indian way of life. Fascinating to watch the people coming and going and at each station, the train seemed to empty out and fill up again within a few minutes bringing a new set of faces on the move.

Memsahib, ever resourceful, handed out drinks, biscuits and fruit as we made our way to Ranthambore.

Arrival at Bharatpur train station

On arrival at Ranthambore, we were met on the station platform by our representative from Royal Expeditions, who, with driver, hurried us into the jeep and we sped off to ‘Tiger Den’ - our lodgings for the next few nights. The reason for the hurry up was that our Jeep was waiting to take us into the reserve before it got too dark. Tigers, here we come.

Memsahib and yours truly

Rajasthan, episode 4: Majestic - Magnificant the Taj Mahal

Majestic - Magnificant the Taj Mahal

.

The impact of this picture is amazing

Rajasthan, episode 4

Leaving Delhi for Agra, we were on our way to see the Taj Mahal. Whilst I have seen many pictures of the Taj Mahal in books and magazines, none of them can do justice to seeing this monument for the first time. It is stunning.

We visited late in the afternoon to get that soft warm glow that works so well on any number of subjects. Wherever you stood, there seemed to be a glow radiating from the structure. This is the most amazing building I have ever seen. There is something very special about this place that it is difficult to describe. I list a few facts if only to remind me when it was built and how long it took:

• The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum. It was commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his favourite wife, Empress Mumtaz Mahal, who died in 1631. So great was the Shah Jahan’s love for his wife Mumtaz, that he ordered the building of the most beautiful mausoleum on Earth for her, The Taj Mahal.

• Construction of the tomb started in 1632, and was completed in 1648. It took 22 years to complete, and an extra 5 years for the garden, with the help of 20,000 workers.

• The Taj Mahal is built from precious white marble with delicate mosiac, with inlaid precious stones. Almost every surface of the entire building has been decorated, and every detail is symmetrical. The mosaic designs are based on three decorative elements - calligraphy, abstract geometric and vegetative motifs. The exterior decorations of the Taj Mahal are among the finest to be found in Mughal architecture of any period.

I took a number of pictures at different locations and angles. On reviewing them, I was surprised with the quality and impact of the images. I consider these pictures as ‘snapshots’, hand-held and often jockeying for position due to the vast number of people at the tomb. However, I put this down to the majesty and mystique of the Taj Mahal, where whoever takes a picture is sure to get a cracking shot – in spite of the photographer!

I trust you will enjoy the pictures:

The first view of the Taj Mahal as you walk through the gate to the gardens

One of the traditional shots of the fountain in front of the Taj Mahal

From whatever angle, the impact is fantastic

A view of the main structure taken with a Nikkor 20-35 mm lens at 22mm showing the impact of diverging verticals from ground level. Sometimes images with diverging vertical work – as in this shot.

A rear view of the Taj Mahal from across the Yamuna River on a misty foggy morning

Rajasthan, episode 3: Soup Kitchen Extravaganza

.

Soup Kitchen Extravaganza

Rajasthan, episode 3

The towns and cities we traveled through included Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are within the area is known as the Golden Triangle. Whilst we did not set out to spend long periods of time at these locations, we spent a day, accompanied by a guide, in Delhi, Agra – the Taj Mahal, and Jaipur – the Pink city.

Now, buildings and monuments are not my first choice of subjects, but you could not fail to be impressed with the sites and buildings at these three locations.

Delhi – has a number of interesting sites, but we expressed a desire to see the working side of Delhi rather than the tourist bits. I have shown a number of pictures of ‘Street Life’ previously (blog post of 5th March), but I cannot resist showing a number of pictures of a Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, Sikh Temple and the soup kitchen.

Gurudwara Bangla Sahib is the most prominent Sikh gurdwara, or Sikh house of worship, in Delhi, known for its association with the eighth Sikh Guru, Guru Har Krishan.

We had the most amazing afternoon visiting the temple and in particular, the soup kitchen. Again, I must comment on the friendly nature of everyone we met. Many wanted their photograph taken, particularly with my wife – but not me?

What a fascinating place! Men and women of all ages volunteer to prepare the food for all who turn up on the day. The temple is open to all Sikhs and a free meal is guaranteed to all. The cost to volunteers; some of their time helping others who, perhaps, cannot help themselves. That’s food for thought.

An Indian family with Memsahib on the left of the picture outside the temple

The central point in the temple for worship and meditation

One of the large cauldrons with what’s left of soup of the day

One of the meals set out on a tray ready for serving

A close up of a cauldron showing the gas burners

A group of volunteers preparing onions for the day’s meal

A line of cauldrons showing the size of the kitchen

Rajasthan, episode 2: From Delhi to Roop Niwas by road and by train
.

Rajasthan - a photographer's paradise

.
Rajasthan, episode 1

Sometime in 2009, Caroline Moorey asked if I would like to go the Rajasthan, India and photograph the Great Britain team in the 81 km endurance race during December 2009. I knew Caroline from previous equestrian events.

The following transpired: Caroline was one of a team of four riders who won the endurance race for Great Britain in Rajasthan in 2008, and the team had been invited back in 2009 to defend their title. Caroline, who I knew to be an exceptional horsewoman and organizer, got my interest. She had provided the pictures for last year's event, but had some difficulty riding and taking photographs at the same time – I am not sure why!

As someone who does not even eat curry, and with many friends who had returned from India with upset tummies, it made good sense to stay away. How wrong that turned out to be!

I came to learn that Caroline is the UK representative of Friends of the Marwari Horse Society. Marwari is the name of a particular breed of horses indigenous to India, the state of Rajasthan in particular. The horse can be identified by their distinctive ears that touch each other at the top.

Marwari horse, with both ears touching, being washed down to reduce body temperature before a vet inspection.

As I photograph a lot of horses, how I could resist the invitation to photograph these special horses in their natural environment? Decision taken; we were off to India!

What camera equipment to take?

The next step was to decide on what camera equipment to take and how best to get on and off the plane. After many trips to Africa and the USA, I considered myself quite adept at packing cameras and lenses into suitable baggage for ‘carry-on’ and ‘checked’ luggage. With continuing restrictions on passengers for weight and size of carry on luggage, I have developed a system that works for me.

My present camera bags are: a Tamrac roller suitcase that complies with the restrictions for ‘carry-on’ (just), that houses my Nikon gear; my second carry-on bag is a ‘duffle’ type soft bag that holds my Nikkor 500mm AFS f4 telephoto lens. The remainder of my photographic gear goes in my checked luggage.

One of my checked bags showing the Lowpro mini trekker with other equipment plus a batch of baseball caps for the grooms

Tamrac ‘carry on bag ‘showing the Nikon cameras, lenses and accessories.

I usually fly British Airways because their Economy and Economy Plus allow two carry-on bags. Other airlines are more restrictive and do not allow two carry-on bags unless you travel Business Class.

All my cameras and lenses are Nikon; the only changes over the years I have made are upgrades to new digital camera bodies and lenses. I pack my roller bag with a full set of cameras, lenses, filters, leads, battery charger, back-up drives, various accessories and, recently, a small laptop computer. As my wife (Memsahib) travels with me most of the time, the laptop, or an extra lens is often placed in her carry-on bag too.

I ensure that I have a full range of equipment in my carry-on bag so that, in the event of my ‘checked’ luggage going astray, at least I have some camera bodies, lenses, back-up drives, a battery charger and a few accessories so I can carry on taking pictures.

The following is the minimum amount of equipment I pack in the carry-on bag:

• Nikon D3 camera body
• Nikon D700 camera body & power grip
• Nikkor 300mm f2.8 AFS VR prime lens
• Nikkor 80-200mm AF f2.8 telephoto lens
• Nikkor 24-85mm AFS f3.5/4.5 lens
• Nikkor 20-35mm AF f2.8 lens
• Nikon SB800 flash gun
• Dell laptop computer
• various accessories (battery charger, spare compact flash cards, polarizing filters, cleaning cloths, batteries etc)
  

My checked bag(s) include:

• a Nikon D2x camera body (back up)
• Nikkor 85mm f1.8 prime lens
• Nikkor 70-300 f3.5/4.5 AFS telephoto lens
• Lowpro Mini Trekker bag
• Nikkor 50 mm AF f1.4 prime lens
• Artic Butterfly sensor cleaning pack
• plastic bags etc.
  

The next stage of the plan is to book the flights and organize transport and accommodation in Rajasthan. I seldom use travel companies to arrange my trips, not because of the cost, but because I customize my trips and so have a better control of events – most of the time.

However, as this was my first trip to India, I sought advice. Caroline, the GB team rider, has been in and out of India for about ten years on a regular basis and advised me to use Royal Expeditions, an Indian-based company. (See the Rajasthan - 81 km Endurance Horse Show Championship section on this page of my website for more information about Royal Expeditions. If you ever go to India, use Royal Expeditions - they are the best!)

I prepared an itinerary and sent it to Royal Expeditions and obtained a price, booked the flights and waited for the day of departure.

Following our arrival in Delhi, we spent a few days doing the tourist thing - visiting Agra, Bharatpur, Ranthambore and Jaipur before spending our last week at Roop Niwas and Dundlod for the 2nd International Invitational Endurance Championships.

We spent most of our time on the road travelling between towns and cities. What an experience! A few words cannot describe my feelings and impressions of Indian life on the street. It was wonderful, amazing and spectacular to say the least. The colour, smells, sheer volume of people intermixed up with camels, cows, donkeys, horses, cars, motorcycles and bicycles are a site to see. The impact totally blew my mind away – a photographer’s paradise.

Reference sites:

• http://www.friendsofmarwari.org.uk
• http://www.endurancegb.co.uk/html/item.asp?ItemId=1795
• http://www.endurancegb.co.uk/html/item.asp?itemId=1791
• http://www.royalexpeditions.com/
• http://feeds.endurance.net/news/2010/01/india-marwari-horses-succeed-in.html
• http://www.michaelhuggan.com/news.php?pg=1

Rajasthan, episode 2: From Delhi to Roop Niwas by road and by train
.